The lustre and mellow colour, characteristic of old silver, which distinguish it from the colder, metallic appearance of new wares, will be enhanced by regular, careful cleaning and polishing. A circular movement, not a backward-and-forward one, should always be adopted when cleaning or drying silver to prevent abrasion. It should also be noted that larger pieces of silver should not be cleaned on a hard surface such as a table-top, but should be held against the body so that hard pressure is not exerted on the piece.

Silver should be cleaned regularly to prevent damage by heavy tarnish. Never use any method of cleaning which involves undue friction or abrasion; always use a cleaner intended specifically for the purpose. Tarnishing results from the reaction of the silver with various compounds of sulphur which are present in the air and certain foods. Such compounds combine with the silver on its surface to form a film of silver sulphide, and it is this which causes the silver to discolour. The most important sources of tarnish-forming sulphur compounds include gases from the burning of oil, coal gas, logs, coal or petrol; and foodstuffs such as eggs, fish, peas, vinegar and lemon juice.

Antique Collector MagazineOne of the worst enemies of silver is salt, which corrodes all silverware. Because of this, salt cellars should be emptied immediately after use and washed at once, together with any items such as salt spoons which may have come into contact with the salt. Glass liners do not necessarily prevent corrosion since the salt often slips between the liner and the silver casing. Salt will not affect a gilt-lined cellar, providing the gilt is not worn. If this is the case, the salt can reach the silver beneath and corrosion will therefore occur.

New products have been introduced over recent years for the cleaning and polishing of silver. Certain good-quality polishes are safe to use on most silver providing the instructions are strictly observed. If in any doubt write to the firm which makes the cleaner: their technical staff will be happy in most cases to give you guidance. Some polishes have definite advantages, including the saving of time and the lessening of abrasion. Among the various types of cleaners available, Goddard’s produce a polish which also contains a long term ingredient that forms an invisible, chemical barrier on the surface of the silver, thus inhibiting tarnish so silver remains cleaner for a longer period. Also available is a long term silver foam which penetrates the crevices and grooves in more intricate and elaborate decorative work. The foam is then rinsed off and the silver is ready to be dried thoroughly with a soft cloth. No water should ever be left on silver, since most water contains chlorine which will discolour it. After washing, dry thoroughly, particularly the more ornate pieces.

For silver cutlery there is a cleaner in the form of a liquid silver dip in which the pieces are placed for a few minutes to remove any tarnish, and afterwards carefully rinsed then dried and polished. This can be done with a special long term silver cloth which is particularly useful for polishing ornaments which are kept permanently on display and which need frequent attention to keep them in excellent condition. They will only need a short, light rubbing action if polished regularly.

An intermediate wash will do your silver no harm. Wash the silver in warm or hot soapy water or, perhaps, a mild detergent. Rinse it thoroughly and dry it with a soft cloth or chamois leather. Silver-gilt also should be cleaned carefully with warm soapy water, then rinsed and gently dried on a soft cloth. Never use a brush or anything harsh which could damage the surface of the piece. Expert advice should always be sought on more complicated problems such as the removal of black spot, verdigris and lacquer from silver and silver-gilt.

Silver and silver-gilt should be stored in tissue paper since this generally contains very little sulphur; in fact, specially-treated sulphur-free paper may be bought from most good jewellers. Never store silver innewspaper, brown paper or blankets. Rubber bands should not be used when storing silver, as rubber is particularly rich in sulphur.

It is vital that all silver should be realistically insured. Certain dealers will value silver and usually charge a percentage of the value of the piece as their fee. You should draw the attention of your insurance company to the fact that objects are antiques when this is so, since they will therefore appreciate in value. The insurance company can then give you an estimate for a premium which will provide the correct kind of coverage. Objects which exceed certain amounts will usually need to be mentioned as individual pieces. It is always a good idea to take photographs of any items which you particularly prize since, in the event of a burglary, these can sometimes be of assistance to the police in the recovery of valuables.

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